How India’s regional cheeses reflect its diverse terroir

When you think of Indian dairy, paneer might be the first thing that comes to mind. But hidden across the country’s diverse landscapes are centuries-old, handcrafted cheeses, each with a story as rich as its flavour. From the misty Himalayas to the colonial hill-towns like Kalimpong and the vibrant kitchens of Bengal, India’s regional cheeses are a fusion of history, tradition and innovation. These aren’t just dairy products — they are time-honoured secrets, passed down through generations.

 “Depending on the dairy animal’s diet, and if the milk comes from the mountains or the plains, the flavour of the cheese will change, reflecting that unique terroir,”shares artisanal cheesemaker Mukund Naidu. In India, cheesemakers have access to milk from a range of livestock, including cows, buffalos, goats, sheep, camels and yaks, and they are celebrating this diverse dairy culture, which Naidu feels can be a potential game changer.

Here's a look at the flavourful journey through India’s lesser known yet extraordinary cheeses, uncovering their origins, unique textures and delicious pairings.

Bandel cheese: The legacy of Bengal

A legacy of Portuguese influence in Bengal, Bandel cheese is one of India’s oldest artisanal cheeses. Known for its distinctive salty and crumbly texture, it is made by separating curds from whey. Its robust profile makes it a sought-after ingredient in experimental gourmet dishes.

Pairing suggestions: If you want a sweet contrast, pair it with honey or fig jam. Or, crumble over bruschetta or grilled vegetables to add depth.

Chhurpi cheese: Himalayan gold

A staple in the Himalayan regions of Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh and Bhutan, chhurpi is dry, saltless cheese made from yak milk popular across the upper Himalayan region. It comes in two varieties: Soft chhurpi – fresh, mildly tangy, and often used in curries; Hard chhurpi – aged for months and chewed like candy.

Pairing suggestions: Soft Chhurpi is used in stews, momos and traditional soups.

Kalimpong cheese: A colonial echo

Developed in the 19th century by Swiss missionaries in the Kalimpong hills of West Bengal, this semi-hard cheese has a mild, nutty flavuor reminiscent of European varieties.

Pairing suggestions: Paired with wines, especially fruity reds and crisp whites.

Flanders Dairy: Modern artisanal cheese

Nestled in the hills of Himachal Pradesh, Flanders Dairy is a modern pioneer in handcrafted cheesemaking, blending European techniques with Indian terroir. Their signature offerings include Gouda, Cheddar and Mozzarella infused with Indian flavours.

Pairing suggestions: Spiced fig chutney, roasted almonds or honey-drizzled walnuts.

Have you tasted any of these regional cheeses? Tell us in the comment section below.